24hrs later, Granat 40 along the cracks/holes to compensate for mesh/tape. Big Wally's Plaster Magic worked great for reattaching the lath and plaster. You can end up with a hump in the wall or surface if you didn't do the above ^^^^^^ techniques/tricks.Īdd 2 coats of semi-gloss or your choice sheen paint, but not Flat since it's a BathroomĪs typical with older homes, you come to that point of "where do I stop (cleaning joints/scrapping paint)?" All the surfaces were hit with Granat 80 and grooved all the cracks. Try it once on a scrap board or piece of drywall to see what I'm talking about.
#Skim coat drywall compound Patch
Please remember that patch tape applied to a surface is going to stick out like a sore thumb unless you either grooved /undercut your crack before applying the tape or you're skim coating a deep enough coat over the tape to hide the tape in the first place. 150g might just work fine for you for all the sanding. if you're using Granat Abrasive from Festool.
120g is the lowest you should need to go, esp. Sand the patched work to blend it in and level it with the walls. And get better Ventilation into that bathroom to save wear and tear on your repairs and paint work. Your post shows way too much priming and confusing skim coating in it. Sand the walls with a higher grit than 80g, like 150g before priming to etch or scratch the old paint as a bonding help. I would prime the walls AFTER applying your repairs or skim coat and that sanding. Unless you really need to skim coat an entire wall, it seems you just want to patch and smooth a wall or two before painting, yes? Tape is generally used to make seams go away or to hide cracks.Įasy Sand is great for light coating or Skim coating, but is not as durable as Time Setting Compound or 'Hot Mud'. Pictures for your thread/post would help greatly. Don't put the fan over the tub, keep it in the room area if you have to just drywall the ceiling after you are done, its probably only 1 sheet or less. 4.5" hole saw for wood or rent a core bit and SDS from Home Depot. You may not like the idea of putting in an exhaust fan but its one of the best easy cheap things you can do to protect the interior.Įxhaust fan $100 or less. Expecting tenants to open the window for ventilation isn't all that realistic, especially in winter. Not putting in a exhaust fan in a rental unit bath just doesn't serve you well over the long term. On side note if you use hot water instead of cold it will cut the drying time in 1/2 of whatever number durabond you use.īeyond that, if you've got the unit vacant put in a exhaust fan. Tape and skim with durabond, prime, paint, caulk, move on.
If you end up with big cracks or holes (which it doesn't sound like you have) you could add in structolite for volume. I'd stay away from joint compound except for final touch up skimming. Having done this job more times than I can count, it sounds like you are overcomplicating it. Plan to use premix compound or 45 minute thinned down, any tips are greatly appreciated and thanks in advance. No vent in the bathroom and some spot peeling of several layers of paint, any issues with adhesion in this would-be wet area or will prime/paint after skimming be sufficient for sealing the bathroom? Paint/primer recommendations for wet areas, (it's a rental) Behr Premium/plus, semigloss sound good? I'm not a tradesmen and I'm not repairing with plaster, joint compound is a little more approachable. Without sanding all the paint off, any need to prime the walls before skimming with compound - what about wiping with tsp or mixing some primer in with the compound before rolling it on? I've read of people thinning PVA glue as a primer before skimming. Giving Plasters Magic a shot on some of these larger cracks followed by mesh and rolled-on skim coat of joint compound on the walls/ceiling. Quick sanded off any peeling paint and leveled previous crack repairs. Refreshing rental unit bathroom with plaster walls and latex paint.
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